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Baking Questions Answered

Posted by on Tuesday, 26 May 2009 14:22
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Every day I receive emails from visitors with questions about a cooking technique or a recipe. I can't get to them all but I try to get as many responses out as time permits and if I don't know the answer, I'll ask one of my chef friends.

Here are a couple I've received that deal with baking, a subject I am not that comfortable with, so I sent them to my friend Chef Jenni Field who is a great baker and pastry chef.

Cracks In Cake

This one comes from Debbie who says, "I tried the apple cake recipe, it is fantastic except for the part about the cracks in the middle of the cake. In fact, I had the same problem with other cakes as well, can u let me know what is the probable cause of this?"

Here's how Chef Jenni replied, "My first thought is that, with fruit in the center, you're bound to get some cracking as the fruit boils and then settles down upon cooling.  I'm not sure how much cracking you're getting, but with a "homey" dessert like an apple cake, I'd just hit it with some powdered sugar and eat up!

If you're getting cracks in other cakes as well, it could be from over-mixing or from using the wrong flour.  Depending on where you live, flours can be very different from one another.  In the US, stick with a nationally available all purpose flour for the most consistent results.

In regard to over-mixing the apple cake, try folding in the dry ingredients rather than trying to beat them in.  (In cakes using the creaming method - adding dry and wet alternately after creaming the fat and sugar, mix until just combined after each addition).

Also, check your oven temperature--if the oven is too hot, it could cause things to rise and peak, creating cracks in the cake.  This is great for muffins, but not what you want with cake.  If you don't have one, get an oven thermometer to check the temperature."

All Purpose Flour

Here's another baking related queston I asked Chef Jenni to help with:

Anna says, "I have tried using natural unbleached, all purpose flour to make a layer cake and have been unsatisfied with the texture.  I tried using 2 tablespoons less of the all purpose flour (which I read is the equivalent of cake flour).  I have tried replacing some of the all purpose flour with corn starch.  None of the things I've tried have given me the light, airy cake that I get when I use the package mix.  I do want the cake to be all natural.  Any suggestions?"

Chef Jenni replies, "I bet it's their mixing method and not their flour that's messing them up. Mass-produced cake mixes contain emulsifiers and tenderizers that are not available to the home baker.  So, generally speaking, a home-baked cake will most likely not be as light as a cake mix cake.  Notice I said "not be as light," not "not be better."  I stay away from cake mixes because of all the additives.

If you've tried using different flours and even using less all purpose to stand in for cake flour, I would consider buying some cake flour.  It is more finely milled than all purpose flour, and so your results tend to be a lighter, finer texture.  If you've tried cake flour already and still aren't satisfied with your results, I would look to your mixing method.

If you are using the creaming method, make sure that all of your ingredients are at cool room temperature (about 68-70 degrees F) and that you thoroughly cream the fat and sugar until it is very light and fluffy.  Add the eggs, one at a time, and beat each one in thoroughly before adding the next.  Then, thoroughly whisk together all the dry ingredients and add about half to the batter.

Mix until incorporated on medium-low speed.  Add half of the liquid and just mix in.  Follow that with half of what's left of the flour, the rest of the liquid and then the rest of the dry.  Mix just until incorporated after each addition and scrape the bowl frequently.

Following this procedure should result in a well-aerated cake that is fairly tender.  If you want a more tender cake, try the Two-Stage mixing method on my web site."

More About All Purpose Flour

Cher asks, "What does all purpose flour have in it? Any baking powder or baking soda?"

Chef Jenni says, "You are not alone in your confusion over flours.  There are a wide variety of flours on the market, and it seems like more are introduced every day.

All purpose flour is a blend of high and low protein flours.  The manufacturers blend the flour so that there is enough gluten in it to make a reasonable (often excellent) loaf of bread but not so much that you will end up with a chewy birthday cake.  This is why they call it "all purpose:" it is good to use in a variety of baked goods.

When you ask about baking powder and soda, I assume you mean self-rising flour.  All purpose flour and self-rising flour are not interchangeable, because self rising flour does contain leaveners and salt.  Self rising (or self raising) flour is one of the first "baking mixes."  Rather than having to measure out all purpose flour, baking powder and salt separately, a cook can just measure the self rising flour--everything else is already in there."

Read 7101 times Last modified on Monday, 18 March 2013 15:32

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67 comments
  • Comment Link Posted by: Deborah A. Cook on Thursday, 18 April 2013 22:32

    A recipe for shortbread cookies asks for 3/4 lb. of butter. How many sticks is that? I am assuming 3 sticks, am I correct?

  • Comment Link Posted by: Marie M on Sunday, 31 March 2013 21:16

    A recipe calls for the pie to be baked at 425 deg F for 30 min followed by 325 deg F for 30 min. Can I just bake it for 375 deg F for 60 min?

  • Comment Link Posted by: Jenni on Thursday, 03 January 2013 13:46

    @Richard not sure what you mean by watery, but it could just be that you underbaked by a few minutes which left the center too jiggly to set up even when cool.

    @Karen It's really hard to say. It depends on what you're looking for--the oil with the least saturated fat? The one that lends additional flavor to your baked goods? The one that lends itself well to browning? I would look for an oil expressly labeled non-GMO and the one with the lightest flavor (unless you want the oil to lend flavor as in a lemon-olive oil cake).

    Also remember that when making a cake that contains oil, even if the recipe calls for a cup of oil, if you cut it into slices, you may only be ingesting 1 Tablespoon per serving. Moderation, as is often the case, is key.

  • Comment Link Posted by: Karen Brandes on Friday, 28 December 2012 22:40

    I have read all the bad press on Canola Oil, etc and am looking for the healthiest oil for baking.
    Can you tell me the safest oil?

  • Comment Link Posted by: Richard Calderon on Thursday, 27 December 2012 03:00

    The last two pecan pies I baked resulted in the center being soft or watery. What causes this to happen?

  • Comment Link Posted by: Jenni on Thursday, 13 December 2012 13:39

    @Debbie: I have honestly never met a spritz cookie that doesn't puff and spread a bit. It's just the nature of the dough: it has to be lose enough to be extruded through the press. You can probably minimize the spread by freezing the pan of spritzed dough until the cookies are solid. Then, bake them from frozen. This should help them keep their shape a bit, but you'll never get the sharp edges or points on the Christmas tree shape, for example, unless you do a rolled cookie and then cut out the shapes. Even then, the points will certainly soften a bit. You could also try maybe subbing some shortening for some of the butter--the shortening has a higher melting point and will help the cookie hold its shape a bit longer in the oven.

    @Charles: I'm sorry I didn't see your question until now. What I would do is sub the persimmons for mashed banana in a banana cake recipe. At the very least, this would be a very good starting point for your experimentation. Use your favorite banana bread recipe--or maybe an applesauce cake, instead--and then swap the bananas or applesauce for the persimmons. You may have to adjust the sugar depending on how much you used in the puree, but I think this would be your best bet.

    I like that you are interested in proportions and the ratios of different ingredients to "build" a cake/brownies with the texture you're looking for. You may want to pick up a copy of Michael Ruhlman's "Ratio" cookbook. That's what the entire book is about: ratios of ingredients to get what you want. Shirley Corriher's "Bakewise" also goes into a lot of that as well.

  • Comment Link Posted by: Debbie Liggett on Wednesday, 12 December 2012 18:30

    I make Spritz Christmas cookies every year, they look great coming out of the cookie press onto the cold cookie sheet. However, when they bake they spread out and loose their distinct shape? How can I fix that, so when they are baked they keep their shape?

  • Comment Link Posted by: Jenni on Monday, 03 December 2012 22:48

    @Mike

    Good questions. Sometimes names change over time. For all intents and purposes, they are the same thing. It may be an early form using "soda ash," but regular baking soda should work just fine in a molasses cookie.

    @Paul You probably will notice a slight increase in baking time, but as long as there is plenty of air circulation around each pie, it shouldn't be a significant amount. I'd keep it at 350 and then check when your one pie would normally be done. If both aren't done, drop it to 325 and cover w/foil if things are starting to brown too much. Depending on how "undone" they are at the "one pie done" mark, check quickly after an additional 5-10 min and in increments of 5 min until they're done. Write down the total time so that next time there won't be any guess work. :)

  • Comment Link Posted by: Mike Leonard on Sunday, 02 December 2012 21:26

    What is the differnce between "soda" and "baking soda" in the cookie recipe I have for Soft Molasses cookies? It comes from a VERY old Watkins cookbook. And there are several recipes that call or both.

  • Comment Link Posted by: Paul Oechsle on Sunday, 18 November 2012 16:20

    In a home I bake pecan pie for 50 min at 350. If I put 2 pecan pies in what temp and how long do I bake them.
    Paul Oechsle

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