How to Choose a Kitchen Granite Countertop
I'm doing a complete renovation of our kitchen and feel like I am back at school with all the wonderful stuff I am learning. Every facet of this job is an education, and I hope to write a whole series on How I "Reluctantly" Renovated My Kitchen. These posts are not in any proper order, but when I'm done, I'll build a landing page on the Reluctant Gourmet website to tie all the posts together.
Chester County Granite Countertops
I was very fortunate to meet Dan and Ann Marie DiTomaso of Stone Masters Inc. at their incredible showroom in Kennett Square, PA, where I received my thorough education in granite. Dan and Ann Marie have been fabricating quality granite countertops in the Delaware, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania areas since the late 90's. They started Stone Masters Inc. after trying to find stone slabs for their kitchen renovation and had very little luck in their local area.
They decided to learn everything they could about granite and how to make their granite countertops for kitchens and bathrooms. At the time, they were buying and selling houses, and these new granite countertops added loads of value to the homes they were renovating.
In response to the high prices and poor service available in the Chester County area, Dan and Ann Marie started Stone Masters Inc. They studied stone production tools and equipment, attended trade shows, and met with stone importers and specialized equipment vendors.
Granite Kitchen Countertop
With a few ads and word of mouth, customers came. Dan and Philip performed every aspect of templating (they actually make Fir plywood or luan quarter-inch templates of the countertop so you can see exactly what it will look like before they fabricate it), fabrication, polishing, and installation by themselves. Shortly thereafter, experienced fabricators, installers, and templators were hired.
They invested in automation when they moved their shop from Aston, Pennsylvania to Kennett Square. They hired a trained team of designers to assist customers with overall shapes, edges, sinks, faucets and backsplash designs. You should see these machines! They are huge and can cut multiple countertops simultaneously with diamond blades. It's worth a visit to see the production, but I would call first.
Interview with Granite Master Dan DiTomaso
When I went to Kennett Square to see his shop, I must have asked Dan dozens of questions. I didn't write down all his answers, so I asked if we could interview granite, how to buy it, what to look out for - all the stuff you want to know about before investing a bunch of money in granite for your own projects. You are going to find this interview very informative and a great read.
This is a MUST READ if you consider purchasing granite countertops for your kitchen or bathrooms.
Dan,
As you know, we are in the process of completing a complete kitchen renovation, including new cabinets and countertops. In my lifetime, I have lived in numerous apartments and homes with all sorts of countertops, including Formica, ceramic tile, wood, granite, stainless steel, and soapstone, so my first question is how one chooses the right material for a new kitchen.
How much is determined by cost?
This depends entirely upon the individual selecting the material and how much they want to spend, but let me give you some ideas about costs and the various options for countertops.
Today, laminates also commonly referred to as Formica (just one brand name of laminate, there are many different laminate manufacturers) are a great surface. They're the least expensive, easy to maintain, and we have all seen it for many years in kitchens.
The significant drawback to laminate is that an undermount sink is not possible, nor are certain shapes and edges. This limits the design of the whole kitchen and the fixtures you can select. Technically, this is because it is a flat skin glued on the top of a substrate. It is not solid all the way through the counter itself.
A solid surface solves that problem. It also has the added benefit of allowing any style edge, shape, an under-mount sink, and a wider variety of appliance choices. Solid surfaces can be engineered stone, real stone, or various synthetic materials.
Engineered stone is commonly referred to as quartz. It is sold under brands like Cambria, LG Vitara, Caesarstone, Silestone, and others. Other types of solid surfaces are essentially plastics and acrylic-type materials, such as Corian that do not contain any natural material content.
Then there are solid natural stone options such as Granite, Travertine, Marble, Soapstone, and Quartzite.
Finally, there are endless tile countertop options, but they have the same problem as laminate (it's not solid all the way through): grout collects and shows dirt.
From least to most expensive, let me give you a feel for what I see in this market. Your mileage may vary.
Laminate $25-$45 per square foot Tile $20-$60 per square foot Granite $39-$99 per square foot Synthetic Sold Surface $50-$90 per square foot Engineered Stone $60-$125 per square foot
How much is determined by functionality?
Most customers repeatedly tell me that the under-mount sink is the biggest functionality impact that drives the decision to upgrade their countertop choice. Most people choose the under-mount vs. a drop-in style sink for that reason alone.
Working adjacent to a sink during food preparation is a given in almost any kitchen. Slipping waste directly into the sink and cleaning the working surface without a sink rim to catch debris and restrict liquids is worth the premium price of any countertop choice over laminate or tile.
How much should you weigh appearance?
Appearance and resale value go hand in hand. Some material choices are big enough and long-lasting enough that you must consider what impact your choice will have on your home's value. How this choice will affect resale value or (salability at all) in this market is a significant consideration. While appearance is a personal choice, your selection and budget may depend on how long you plan to stay in the home.
Let's start with granite since we decided to put that into our kitchen. My cabinet person told me you buy granite by "Levels". Level 4 is more expensive than Level 1, and so on. Can you explain what these levels represent and how important they are?
There is no standard "Price level" for any stone. One stone yard or fabricator may classify a species of granite named New Venetian Gold as a level 2 and another as a level 3. With thousands and thousands of stone quarries worldwide, the price level is a reference point for a budget meter and not too much more than that.
Look at the bottom line of one supplier's quote as compared to another vendor's quote.
It can be deceptive to compare one supplier's level 3 price to another supplier's level 3. Comparing the bottom line as opposed to the top line of the quote shows you all of the elements that make up the quote.
One store may charge a really aggressive price for the stone and make it up on edges, extra men, templating charges, trip charges, etc. Look beyond the square foot price, or you may actually pay more in the end.
What makes a level 4 granite better and more expensive than a level 1 or two?
Better is a misnomer; more expensive is accurate. Many people automatically perceive that being more expensive means better or higher quality, which is not the case. The primary factors that affect the cost of stones are:
- County or origin: IE: Labor costs in China are dramatically less than in Italy.
- Freight: Quarry from port distance is especially significant due to the extreme weight of the product.
- Hardness: The hardness of one granite compared to another affects the time and tooling required to quarry and fabricate your stone choice.
- Competition: Many quarries producing similar stones near each other will reduce costs. Compare this to one quarry offering a unique and popular stone. In this case, real (or perceived) exclusivity keeps demand and price high.
- Fragile stone: Beautiful yet delicate stones suffer higher breakage and cost more to bring a finished product to market. They may require more reinforcing and specialized handling drives up the cost. Notice that none of these primary factors are "quality". Quality is a factor, but not the most significant raw material cost. Quality comes into play more so in the finished product.
Since granite countertops vary in cost, and we are on a budget, how should we determine how much to spend on them? What factors should we consider when making the final choice?
Over the years, I have noticed that younger buyers are on a tighter budget and typically plan a 3-5-year stay in the first home. They tend to buy neutral colors at the 1 through 3 price level. When they sell the home, the stone choice has wide market appeal and yet offers the return associated with "granite"
The 40-somethings seem to be buying stone for themselves. They are not buying it based on resale. They want function, beauty, and personal choice. Low maintenance is also high on their list. This age group/mindset buys from level 4 and up.
Finally, there are people in their 70s and up who are downsizing into a retirement home or assisted living community. In some cases, they buy what they want, and in other cases, they buy what they can afford.
Should where the granite comes from enter into our decision-making? For example, you told me most granite comes from Brazil and Italy. Is granite from one place "better" than granite from another?
The Italians produce the best finish, polish, and resin treatments and are highly selective with their quarried block purchases. The stones they offer come not only from Italy but all over the world. They charge for their quality.
Brazil quarries about 70% of the world's countertop stone and is blessed with a wide variety of colors and types of stone. Labor is inexpensive there. Some of the blocks they quarry are processed into slabs right there in Brazil, and some are sold to Italian, Indian, or Chinese processors who cut them into slabs, resin-treat the stones, and polish them before selling them into the European or Western markets.
Because a stone of Brazilian origin may have been processed in any number of countries, the same type of stone can have different quality polishes, resins, and grades. This makes it very difficult to say that one fabricator's New Venetian Gold at $49 per sq foot is a better value than another's at $59. Even though it is the same stone, it is not necessarily the same quality.
When choosing a granite company like StoneMasters, what should I look for to ensure I'm working with the right company?
Stone is only half the decision. Who does the fabricating and how it is done will impact the finished product more than the stone itself.
Referrals are extremely helpful. Stone fabrication is a mom-and-pop business, and you are best served by carefully looking for referrals and reviews. You should look for all the telltale signs of a business that has been around for a while and has actual bricks and mortar.
At the bare minimum:
- Get referrals from friends and family.
- See your slab in person; inspect it. Do not buy based on a sample you saw in a showroom or home center. Go to a stone yard and see an actual factory and actual slabs.
- Look at the factory. Is it neat, clean, and organized? How about the showroom?
- How is the stone produced? By hand or by computer-aided equipment?
What questions should I ask them to be sure I'm working with the right people?
- Where the stone meets the wall, is it scribed to fit the wall or straight cut and caulked?
- In front and behind the sink bowl, will there be reinforcing rods on the underside of the stone?
- How is the sink mounted to the stone? Do they use silicone alone or use epoxied anchors and silicone? Are there anchors actually in the stone, or are they glued to the surface of the stone? Do they use sink mounting rails? Ask them to show you how it will be done in your home.
- Will you, the customer, be given the option to lay out your template on the stone before it is cut?
- What brand sealer is used, and how many coats are applied?
- What is the warranty? What does it cover, and for how long?
- Do the templator and the installers speak English? Hispanic workers dominate the fabrication industry, and you certainly don't want any miscommunication when it comes to an expensive piece of granite. You have to ask.
- Most consumers have never bought granite before. Will there be any counter design consulting or assistance to show them what shapes might enhance their particular kitchen design?
- The shop with long lead times is in demand. The shops that can template today or tomorrow and then install in two more days are probably not busy for a reason. Restaurants that require a reservation usually render better meals and service than fast-food restaurants!
Are there any sales techniques used by less than above board granite countertop companies that we should be aware of and avoid?
- Pushy "sign the contract now" salespeople who sell based upon a sale price or because their price is better than the next guy's are selling that way because they do not have quality to offer and compete with.
- In certain areas of the country, men with stone "Leftovers from a job around the corner" will offer to fabricate in your driveway. Run.
- People attracted to offers of free sinks, edges, or whatever are frequently the same people who are disappointed with the finished product.
How thick is the granite used for countertops?
In our area 3CM (or what is about 1.25 inches thick) is the normal granite thickness.
Does it vary depending on where you live?
Yes, it does. In California, Texas, and Florida, it is typical to have 2CM (about ¾ of an inch thick) stone. Thinner stone requires a substrate to be installed on top of the cabinets before the stone countertop can be installed. This substrate is typically a plywood base.
The thinner 2CM stone itself requires a "build up" (another layer) of stone to be glued onto the front edge to appear thicker. This is also required to produce certain edges and hide the substrate. There is a seam between the two layers running the entire length of the stone edge when there is a "build-up".
Counters made this way are more likely to crack than the thicker 1.25-inch stone used in the rest of the U.S. market.
3CM is growing in popularity in California, Texas, and Florida, but 2 CM is still predominant in those markets.
Installing seems to me as important as or even more important than the granite itself. What questions should I ask to ensure I get the best installation possible?
The number one question should be - How will a seam be made? A beautiful stone, gorgeous sink, and all the right finishes can be ruined if the seam is wide, uneven, or done poorly. The pride the company takes in making their seams can make or break your kitchen countertop.
Vacuum-assisted seaming tools, chemical biscuits, and CNC-prepared seams to make for the tightest and strongest seams. Coupled with color-matched epoxy results, it is the least visible seam. Sawn cut pieces, put together by hand lend to wider and possibly uneven seams.
Do granite companies typically offer any warranties on their work? If so, what kind of warranties should I expect to receive?
The stone is 30 - 80 million years old and will outlast us all. It will not change its state, rot, or disintegrate. Granite is a material that is as stable as it is on planet Earth. The warranty you want covers manufacturing defects for a year.
Remember that the fabricator did not make the material. The fabricator shaped and polished the stone you chose and inspected. The craftsmanship is immediately apparent. The finished pieces all fit properly, are shaped properly, and are polished properly or not.
Deficiencies that may appear later are seams that pop possibly due to no chemical biscuits or a settling cabinet base. Sinks that fall away from the stone could be due to improper mounting or a badly vibrating garbage disposal.
Stone can stain, and the warranties against staining that I have seen are limited choices of stones (resin-treated ones). They are similar to an extended warranty in that the increased cost of the product covers the reseller's claims. It doesn't guarantee that it will not happen; they will only attempt to blame you or correct it if it does.
My current counter has a granite backsplash by the sink and I noticed that some of the joints are not flush. No big deal, but I am aware of it. Is that because it was not installed properly or does the granite shift over time?
There are three possible reasons for this.
- The cabinets were not installed properly and settled over time.
- The granite was installed that way from day one.
- The house has settled since the cabinets and counters were installed.
One of the biggest challenges in installing counters is unlevel or improperly installed cabinets. Using a four-foot level is just not enough. Using a laser level that shoots a line around the whole L or U shape of the kitchen captures level in all directions all at once not just 4 feet at a time.
Either the carpenters install shims underneath the cabinets or the countertop installers install shims on top of them. The best option is under the cabinets. That way, the shims are hidden by the toe kick and are not visible.
Both cabinet companies we've been working with wanted to supply the granite countertops themselves. They probably work with companies like StoneMasters and work as the middleman. So why more people don't come directly to you? Is there an advantage to working with designers or cabinet suppliers?
Cabinet companies make money by referring customers to a specific granite company. The benefit of buying granite from a cabinet company is that they know which granite companies offer good quality and which are just cheap. If there is a problem with the granite, the cabinet and granite company will more likely work together to solve the problem instead of pointing at each other. Remember: referrals and reviews are very important.
Cutting out the middleman may result in some savings since the cabinet company must pay the designer a commission. Remember that the cabinet company does kitchen work every day, all year long. The end user is typically buying one or two countertops per lifetime.
What are the advantages of working directly with the supplier and installer?
Many cabinet companies know cabinets, but do not necessarily know granite. Even if they have a good understanding of stone, they typically do not know what is in stock and available or what the current resin finish or polish is like. I would not ask the granite expert which cabinet finish is best for wear and tear any more than ask the plumber for electrical advice. The best price, advice, and variety will be at the stone yard or fabrication facility, not at the cabinet designer's desk.
Let's talk a little about granite. My high school geology classes taught me most rock is porous. Why doesn't granite absorb liquids?
Granite does absorb liquids and can stain. Your high school geology class serves you well. Most (not all) stone slabs have been treated with resin. A resin-treated stone has had resin squeegeed over the surface to fill in pores, fissures, and other natural blemishes.
The whole slab is then heated to cure the resin. Finally, the whole face of that stone is polished. This resin-treated stone version is largely impervious to liquid absorption and very stain-resistant.
Three things to know:
- Not all stones are resin-treated.
- Not all resin treatments are the same quality. (Remember that the same stone can be processed in Italy, India, Brazil, and China but was quarried in Brazil)
- The edges of the stone are cut and are no longer resin-treated...enter sealer!
Is there any sealer used in the manufacturing of granite?
There are scores of different sealers available, and they vary widely in quality and performance. I find that certain types of sealer perform really well for repelling oil-based liquids and yet perform badly for water-based liquids. We seal with one type of sealer in the shop and another in the field after installation to capture the best of both products.
What type of maintenance do you recommend to your clients to keep their granite looking great?
If you have an unresined stone, re-sealing it twice a year will take a few minutes and is as easy as using Windex. If you have a resin-treated stone, once a year should be more than adequate. There is a very easy test you can do to see if your sealer is still working.
Place a drop of water on the surface and see if it darkens the stone and absorbs into it. If it immediately absorbs into the stone, you need to re-seal it. If it takes a long time or does not absorb at all, you have nothing to do.
DuPont Stone Tech makes wipes that both clean and protect. You can apply a small amount of sealer as you clean your counters. This cannot hurt at all.
What if it accidentally gets scratched?
Granite is very hard to scratch. Chipping is more likely than scratching. The only thing in your home hard enough to scratch granite is diamonds or more granite. Your pots and pans can chip the stones especially around the sink if you carelessly toss pots and pans into the sink.
If it scratches, it can be filled with color-matched epoxy or cyanoacrylate or polished out.
Dan, I realize there are a lot more questions I would like to ask you about granite and how it compares to other countertop materials. I'm hoping we can continue this conversation in a future interview, but let me end today by asking you to sum up what you consider the main benefits of installing granite as a countertop.
Select your fabricator based on referrals. Go see the production facility and look around at the equipment and condition of the factory. The finished product will reflect what you see in the environment. Good quality work and products come from well-run and well-organized shops. Sloppy work comes from sloppy shops. Make sure the fabrication shop is not a pick-up truck in your driveway!
Select your stone from actual slabs, not samples or pictures. Select your slabs in person and inspect them closely for fissures and flaws. What you see is what you will get.
Ask for scribes, rods, anchors, and resin-finished slabs, and, unless you are fluent in Spanish, ask for English-speaking templators and installers to facilitate communication.
You should be at your house for both the templating and the installation. Questions will affect your job's finished look and fit, and you should be there to ask and answer them.
Read your contract and ask lots of questions.
Next time, let's talk about Soapstone and Marble as countertop choices.
Dan, thank you so much for your answers. I know anyone who reads this interview will have a better understanding of granite countertops and how to choose the best granite for them.
Theresa Spivey
Thank you so much for the post/article. My husband and I are just in the process of interviewing fabricators and this article has pretty much answered all of question as to which type stone, levels, installation, seams, etc. Again, thank you so much for the post!
You are very welcome Theresa. Glad it was helpful. Please let me know how your kitchen turns out and send me a couple of pictures. - RG
Deborah Troutz
Great interview! You asked all the right questions. Dan DiTomaso knows his granite! There are some who have been in the business for a few decades and still cannot explain it as well as he did. The only thing incorrect is that Texas fabricators and vendors use 3CM slabs. It has become rare for a 2CM, unless special ordered. The reason behind this is basically cost. The thinner the slab the more likely a break would occur during fabrication, installation or transporation. Since there are no two slabs alike, more than likely the entire job would have to be redone. This loss the contractor would have to eat up. Also (depending on the fabricator)different machinery might be required to make those special cuts.
Oh, and as for those free/discounted sinks - if they're DuPont - I would consider the offer. That is, of course, after the great referals. Those offers get passed down straight from the vendor through the contractor.
Just some inside information from someone who has worked with granite fabricators and installers for many years. 😉
Hi Deborah, thanks for the feedback and information. - RG
Marble granite countertops
If you are planning to install granite worktops in your kitchen, then you need to bring a sketch with very accurate dimensions or eliminate any risk by taking advantage of the dealer's professional measuring services.
The Reluctant Gourmet
Actually, I would recommend only working with a granite countertop company that comes out to your location, takes measurements and prepares a template so you know exactly what you are going to get as Dan describes in his interview.
Tabby Jurgensmeyer
This is the type of article I have been looking for! Unbiased, informative, helpful. I feel like now I have all the information I need to ask right questions and know what to look for in a fabricator. This is really going to help me in replacing my kitchen counter tops. Thank you!
The Reluctant Gourmet
Thank you Tabby. When I did the interview with Dan I was blown away by his answers and the amount of information he provided. It was a great help to me when figuring out how to buy my granite counter tops.
B. Powell
This was indeed a very well-written article. My every question was answered about my granite counter top installation. I look forward to the installation which is a week away. Thanks.
Hi B. Powell,
Glad the article was a help. Please come back after installation and tell us how it went and if there is anything you would do differently. - RG
Jeannie
Should you accept new granite that the fabricator fixes using an acrylic material?
The Reluctant Gourmet
Hi Jeannie, I asked Dan DiTomaso from Stone Masters Inc in Kennett Square, PA your questions and as usual he has a great response. Here is what he had to say,
“When granite or most other natural stones comes out of the ground, it is not perfect. It has natural anomalies, pits, pores and fissures though out the stone.
Typically the stone surface is resin treated, meaning that the pits, pores, fissures and anomalies are filled with a resin to make the stone’s surface feel smooth and fills all of those imperfections. These resins are acrylic, epoxy or polyester type resins depending upon the stone or quarry processing center that is actually doing the work.
Really exotic stone is vacuumed processed, meaning the resin is literally vacuumed into the stone. This is done so as to fill the voids with resin material. Many countertop stones are literally covered and filled with resin, some front and back, or top and bottom as the case may be.
This makes the stone stronger, more resistant to stains and improves the surface that is to be used as a food prep countertop as stone itself natural, is less than perfect.
So to answer your question directly about Acrylic being used to fix the stone. It is OK to accept it, but it depends upon how well it is done and the nature of what is being fixed. Was the repair a pin hole or chip that was being filled in? Did the whole counter crack in half and get glued back together. How does it look? Can you see the repair or does it blend into the overall look of the stone. What type of stone was it? Was a pigmented additive added to the glue to blend into the stone, was it polished when completed. Feel free to send me a photo of the repair.
When a stone breaks and is epoxied back together and then smashed on the floor to test the strength of the glue, typically everything shatters except the stone where the epoxy was used. The point is, that structurally the repair area is most likely stronger then it was before. So the real question is how does it look?”
Tricia
We had an install (Aquarius granite) We noticed on a large piece of the edging (full bull nose) that it wasn't smooth but seemed damaged. Not just porous but maybe smashed. How could that be fixed? Thank you.
Hi Tricia, I contacted Dan at http://www.stonemastersinc.net and here is what he had to say,
Aquarius is a beautiful and very diverse stone with many different minerals in it's make up. This lends to repairing it. Send a few photos to me at info at stonemastersinc dot net so that I may better understand and perhaps recommend a solution. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, send me a few to capture what you are describing.
Beth
The background reflection showing on that one granite picture is amazing. It shows how shiney some granite colors can be. There is actually a tool you can purchase that will tell you the shine and light reflection in your countertops. Some people love granite for the purpose of having a countertop that is so polished and shiny. We install granite countertops all the time.
Julie Sasewich
We are torn between granite (baked sealed) and Quartz. One of our questions deals with environmental impact of the quarrying of the former and fabrication of the latter.
Hi Julie, I don't have an answer for you but would suggest you contact Dan and Ann Marie DiTomaso of Stone Masters Inc (link above) and see what they have to say. Tell them the Reluctant Gourmet gave you their names. Would love to hear what you decide to use and why. - RG
June
Just had granite installed last week from India. Needed 130" slab for breakfast bar. Was told that's one of the few countries that have the equipment for that size to polish the granite. Was also appraised of the fact by builder that the breakfast bar should have under counter support because the span is too long. My installer argued that it wasn't needed if it was a 10" overhang or less. To prove his point he jumped up on the counter and laid across it and tried bouncing on it to show it's strength. Today I noticed a crack across the 18" counter. I am very upset. Should I accept this now? Can it be repaired without any evidence? What should I do at this time? I called the co. and they will send someone out to look at it. I want to be armed with info. Before they come out to know what my options are.
Thank you.
Hi June, I do not know but I will ask my friend Dan DiTomaso from Stone Masters in Kennett Square, PA who is an expert on all things granite to post a reply. - RG
Dan DiTomaso
Hi June,
I am sorry to hear of your dilemma.
The Marble Institute says that support is required for 12 inch or more of overhang. Of course this statement is stone dependent.
Having only 10 inches of overhang you SHOULD have been safe without additional corbels or bracket type supports. These would only offer support from front to back.
If the crack is running from the front to the back of the piece, (as opposed to length wise) it is likely that the crack occurred due to not enough, or potentially uneven support from left to right. Meaning high or low spots on the surface it sits upon.
Is it a crack or a fissure? Was it there for millions of years or did it only appear after it was installed.
Which way does it run and is the piece fully supported, or are there gaps under the piece in question?
Did you get a warranty and what does it say about cracks and fissures?
Feel free to e-mail photos to [email protected]. I will be happy to look at the photos and give you a call.
Thanks Dan for your response. - RG
Laine Benthin
Heyho, great post! I will keep following your homepage
Janis Nicolosi
FABULOUS BLOG!! THANKS!!
I'M FEELING BETTER ABOUT GOING FORWARD WITH REMODELING MY KITCHEN!!
Tammy Mann
I just had my granite tops installed by a fabricator, and I am not happy with the results. On the corner the joint edge are lining up in the front and in the back, but if you rub your hand down the seam one side raises up, so it is not flush is there way to fix that or will i have to deal with that. The fabricator said it was because of the way the granite was made. Can it be sanded down to be level with the other side and then polished or can something else be done about it.
The Reluctant Gourmet
Hi Tammy, I asked Dan from http://www.stonemastersinc.net to comment on your question:
If I understand you correctly, the slab is slightly dipped. Your installers made it perfectly level front and back and yet it seems to dip in the center of the seam just on one side. You didn’t tell me by how much or if the stone is resin treated. These two factors need to be considered prior to making a decision to “top sand” or Top polish the seam.
This can be “Top polished” so that it feels smooth, however you will be removing the baked on resin finish (if your stone has one) and reflecting light differently (due to a different polish only on the seam) which may actually draw more attention to the seam than you intended.
My advice would be to find out if it is a resin treated stone before making your decision and measuring the lip. If the lip is very small it may not be worthwhile to top polish it perfectly smooth. The trade off is it may feel perfect but look imperfect. Not all stones are resin treated. I do not know if yours is. About 90% of all available granites are resined.
You have to remember that it is stone and a product of nature, so there may be hard and soft components within the slab. This may contribute to the surface not being perfectly flat despite the fact that it was all polished in a machine designed to face polish stone evenly. The stone itself may not be consistent lending to some areas being a different thickness than others even within the same slab.
The resin treatment will help to keep the stone from staining. Removing the resin treatment in only one area may also have the stone “AGE” differently in just that spot. Aging is the natural color change that happens over time. An even resin coating will allow the stone to age and patina evenly over time. Removing the resin in one area exposes the raw stone to light, soap, oils and other common counter-top items that may age the stone (just in the spot you instruct the fabricators to remove the resin from).
Before making the decision consider the side effects and the overall look as well as the feel, understand the trade offs and then make your decision.
Thanks Dan
Barbara
When purchasing granite and having the fabricator template the kitchen design, in my case I had to purchase 2 sheets of granite, who gets the left overs. Because of the design in the granite and the length of my counter tops, there will be a lot of waste. Do I the customer get the waste? Or does the fabricator adjust my price?
The Reluctant Gourmet
Hi Barbara, I asked Dan from http://www.stonemastersinc.net for a reply and here is what he had to say.
It is typical and customary that your were quoted for stone by the square foot. If this is the case, you did not actually buy whole slabs, you only bought the square footage to make your countertops. You selected the slabs to have them made from.
On your invoice or contract it should clearly quote you a price for your counters. If it does it does not entitle you to the rest of the stone slabs. Perhaps you were quoted by the square foot, which again would not entitle you to the rest of the slab. On the other hand if your contract or estimate quotes you by the slab, the rest is yours.
FYI: The stone itself is about 1/3 the cost of a finished countertop. The labor, tooling, overhead and freight to make it fit a specific application are all greater costs than the stone itself. We average 25% waste, and know
this before we come up with a cost per square foot to make countertops. We also know that remnants are essential to recover our waste and manage that waste cost down to 25%.
Thanks Dan
Barrett
Hey! This really is my first comment right here so I merely wanted to give a simple shout out and let you know I truly enjoy reading through your blog posts. Could you recommend any blogs
Mike
I recently had granite installed in my kitchen. I'm unhappy with the backsplash. There is a 1/2 inch line above the top of the backsplash of the previous wall color of the kitchen. It appeared that the backsplash should have been 4/12 inches vs. the 4 inches installed. I was told they used a "standard" 4 inch backsplash and that this is a normal finished product. It is definitely more than a touch up b/c the wall is not flush as many coats of paint have been put on through the years so it will have to be sanded and painted. I'm concerned about making this look right. What is the best way to go about this-? Thanks for your blog- wish I'd seen it beforehand.
The Reluctant Gourmet
Hi Mike, sorry to hear about your backsplash troubles. I asked my friend Dan at Stonemasters for a reply to your question and here is what he had to say,
Four inch is a standard kitchen backsplash height. When remodeling, communication is very important. Being at template and discussing every detail is critical to every countertop. At template the customer needed to specify that they wanted the granite to solve a paint problem and not simply replace the existing countertop and backsplash. By the same token the templator could have asked if the customer had wanted an extra-ordinarily tall backsplash to solve a non-countertop related problem.
If the contract and sketch called for 4.5 or 5 inch backsplash, the customer should ask for replacement backsplash. If it specifies a 4 inch backsplash and a 4 inch was delivered, get a paint brush and scraper.
Liz
I recently contracted for a kitchen remodel to include level 1 granite counter tops. A day after a visit to the granite yard and selecting my stone with the contracted company, I was informed the stone selected was actually a level 2 granite and would cost 220.00 more. It is not a huge up charge but taps into my appliance budget. Should I return to chose the anticipated stone at a "level 1" or cough up the extra bucks?
Dan DiTomaso
Liz,
The fabricator ought to have a printed price list per level, or have each slab labeled by level and price, and provide you with a written quote based upon the stone you selected.
I would not be very comfortable with the "surprise" level change.
If you went to a distributor to select slabs while the fabricator doing the quoting was in a different location then I would get a second or third quote from other fabricators for the same stone.
On the other hand, if you assumed the stone you selected was going to be a level one from all fabricators, you may be disappointed to learn that there is not a standard level within the granite industry.
If you are more comfortable with this particular fabricator the $220 is not so significant. In other words, it may not be worth the risk to get a better price than the quality.
The decision is in your hands.
Dan DiTomaso Stone Masters Inc
Thanks Dan for your help. Much appreciated. - RG
Marni
Wonderful, thank you! I appreciated this part of the blog post "What questions should I be asking them to be sure I am working with the right people?" But I have no idea what most of the answers SHOULD be! Can you provide an answer key of the "right" answers? thanks!
Gary
A lot of information. The subject I am still concerned about is how important is the real classification of the stone. What I have discovered is that most stone slabs are called granite, but many truly are not. The European Standards require a different classification than granite for many of the stones. What should I know about these different types of stone? Should I be looking for a higher percent of quartz? Is the grain coarseness important? I have also read to stay away from stones containing calcite. Thanks.
The Reluctant Gourmet
Hey Gary, I asked Dan DiTomaso from Stone Masters Inc, an expert on all things granite and here is what he had to say,
There are many different types of stone being sold for countertop use and almost all of them contain various percentages of different elements. Some granite has a lot of quartz while others have less. A common statement about a stone types being used to blanket them all is, “Stone commercially known as granite”. Unfortunately this has become the standard answer from many quarries and distributors.
There are over 5000 quarries producing slabs for countertops, most are granite but some are quartzite, marble, limestone, serpentine, soapstone and may other types of stone. Many of the slabs are a blend of two or more types of stone. Even within the same quarry from one block to the next you can have a vein of something different running through the stone slab. This vein may add a splash of color, interest, or variation that makes that particular slab unique, beautiful and exactly what you may want in your countertop.
Avoiding stone with a calcium content is important if you never want any risk of etching. Etching is a chemical reaction that most commonly leaves behind the dreaded glass ring and can not easily be polished away. Marble and Travertine type stones and even some Dolomites may be vulnerable to etching in varying degrees.
The easiest and most certain way to know if your stone is vulnerable to etching is to test it. Get a sample of the slab before you buy it and put lemon juice concentrate on the sample overnight. You will know with 100% certainty if the stone you are contemplating is vulnerable to etching or not.
The internet is a great resource for information about a particular species of stone. Type it into Google and learn about the stone but test your own samples as often times the name alone is not a reliable source of stone.
Dan DiTomaso
Cynthia
I am looking at a granite that has been honed (I think that is the correct word) also a piece that she described as weathered. What are the pros and cons of these two types of granite.
The Reluctant Gourmet
Hi Cynthia, I contacted Dan DiTomaso from http://www.stonemastersinc.net and here is what he had to say,
Honed stone is an really an unfinished polish. To hone stone you begin polishing and stop at about 500 grit as oppose to going all the way up to a 3000 grit for a polished finish. If the stone is already polished and you want it honed you have to reverse the process and sand away the 3000 grit polished finish and take it back to about 500 grit.
Doing this removes the resin finish (if there was one) and the protection that it offered. It is like opening up the pores of the stone which has a few side effects. This leaves the stone more vulnerable to staining and makes the stone more likely to show smudges and finger prints. Certainly you can and should seal the stone with a penetrating sealer which increases the time to react to a spill but you are more vulnerable. For this reason soapstone has been very popular for customers who want a weathered and non-bling look. Soapstone has no pores so it can not stain.
There are other options such as leathered and brushed finishes which give that worn, aged or weathered look and yet may have a resin finish affording you all the same protection as a polished and resined stone.
The Quartz manufacturers (Synthetic stone) offer honed finishes that can not stain and yet some of them require a sign-off as the honed finish still shows smudges and fingerprints to such an extent that customers are required to sign off an acknowledgement before the manufacturer will ship the material. Honed stone is an really an unfinished polish. To hone stone you begin polishing and stop at about 500 grit as oppose to going all the way up to a 3000 grit for a polished finish. If the stone is already polished and you want it honed you have to reverse the process and sand away the 3000 grit polished finish and take it back to about 500 grit.
Doing this removes the resin finish (if there was one) and the protection that it offered. It is like opening up the pores of the stone which has a few side effects. This leaves the stone more vulnerable to staining and makes the stone more likely to show smudges and finger prints. Certainly you can and should seal the stone with a penetrating sealer which increases the time to react to a spill but you are more vulnerable. For this reason soapstone has been very popular for customers who want a weathered and non-bling look. Soapstone has no pores so it can not stain.
There are other options such as leathered and brushed finishes which give that worn, aged or weathered look and yet may have a resin finish affording you all the same protection as a polished and resined stone.
The Quartz manufacturers (Synthetic stone) offer honed finishes that can not stain and yet some of them require a sign-off as the honed finish still shows smudges and fingerprints to such an extent that customers are required to sign off an acknowledgement before the manufacturer will ship the material.
Granite Countertop
It is extremely recommended that you utilize a high-quality granite countertop sealer to help block the absorption of liquids and oils that may stain your countertops.
Gail Golden
Saw a pattern called Key West that I thought would work with cabinet color. Was advised not to purchase that color because it was more porous than other slabs that I was comparing it to. The others were Saint Celia and New Venetian Gold. My cabinets are a wheat color.
Would appreciate your thoughts on this.
Thanks.
Gail
Jocelyn Lacerna
Dear Sirs,
This is Jocelyn and also an employee of Cabinet maker here in Philippines. We also used granite countertop for kitchen and bathroom.
I have this concern, thus the yellow colored line or what they call rust color in a light colored granite considered defect on the stone and not good for customer to buy. We have this kind of project and our client reject this kind of colored lines on the granite. By the way, the color of our granite is Beige Porrino, are you familiar with this problem? How can we justify with the clients that this yellow colored lines on the stone is considered part of it.
We hope that you can advise us answer for this problem.
Thank you
John G
I need to get some new granite countertops in Edmonton. Does anyone know of someone that can get me a really good deal?
Paula Person
I recently purchased granite counter tops and on the same day of installation I felt a roughness near the front sink area. I called the company the next morning and spoke with them about my concerns. They reassured me it was a fissure which is a natural part of the stain. I even explained to them it feels like a hairline Crack. They didn't agree and didn't do anything about it. Should I be concerned about this Crack becoming larger? Help please. Your blog is good.
Dwight D
We are considering an exotic granite, the supplier calls it "fusion". It has a lot of veins of colours. It has been labelled as a fragile stone and some fabricators won't touch it, it's also very expensive. Does it remain fragile after installation?
Simi K
great Blog and lots of info! we are installing countertop in our kitchen. The fabricator is refusing to make an ogee edge in my caviar granite countertop...he says there are flaky minerals that will break the stone at places. is that correct? please help. we need to make a decision soon.
Dan
Yes!
As a fabricator I too would not attempt to put an Ogee edge on that "stone". That stone is flaky and contains a high concentration of Mica.
The fact that your fabricator refuses indicates to me that he has both knowledge and principles in his craft. I would stick to him and his advice as he is forgoing the premium margin of a premium Ogee edge and risking loosing the job rather than taking the money and making the edge problem your future issue.
Other fabricators that would shape an ogee edge on that particular stone either don't know the material and the flaky nature of it....or don't care that your edge is going to fall apart over time. Either way, you have the right guy. Take his advice, he knows stone.
The better question is will this stone flake from normal use? Is this actually a granite, do you really want this stone. Ask for a small sample to be hammered off the corner and run your hands over the edges and look at it with your own eyes. Compare that to any other granite and you will see why he is saying he can not put an ogee edge on this particular stone.
After looking at two side by side samples....ask your self is this a stone I want in my kitchen? Will these flakes end up in my food. I am sure the stone you selected is absolutely beautiful but is it absolutely a suitable countertop stone?
The Reluctant Gourmet
As always Dan, thanks so much for your detailed and informative response.
Kim
After acquiring a BBA & BSN,RN plus I owned a fence company for many years & dealt with a lot of customers, I'm very impressed with your article and having someone like Dan & his wife answer your excellent questions. I'm also in the process of having a fabricator who owns a stone yard with onsite slabs to chose from & a very clean & well staffed & operated workplace. My home is in the cottage section of our country club with homes at least 70+ years old. It took myself 7 solid weeks to remodel my own kitchen. I was raised by grandparents who owned over 60+ homes/rentals and learned to sand, paint, sheet rock, tape & bed, etc.... @ a very early age. Anyway I never had the money for personally choosing granite for my own kitchen countertops until now. I've been working on my dream kitchen for at least 10 years. Having 3 sons to educate I had to keep my original 22" cabinets from 70+ years ago, painted Dove White & put a mobile home trailer stainless steelsink in b/c of the smaller depth & size of cabinets. Therefore I was determined to have the granite I wanted!!! Royal White supposedly from India @ $70 per sq ft with 54.3 sq ft kitchen galley kitchen this costs $4,001. Thank you for a very informative article. It took me a while to find it before making my decision. I'm hoping that I did my homework like you & made an educated decision. Much appreciated. Sincerely Kim,RN
Sue Shuttleworth
I'm looking at putting granite in my kitchen and interested in the granite from Brazil called Ferrato. I'm hearing that this granite needs a colour enhancer on the edging to match the piece of granite. Question? is this enhancer a one time application or something that we have to do to keep edges matching the top. I have a concern that this won't match and I'm doing a big kitchen job. I want the colour to be the same on the edges and the top. I was considering the Ogee edge. can you direct me in the right direction. Does all granite need this colour enhanzing on the trim edges/
hoping you can help - thanks, S.
The Reluctant Gourmet
Hi Sue, I will ask my friend Dan DiTomaso from Stone Masters to reply.
Dan DiTomaso
Color enhancer or ager is a one time treatment to the edges so that it matches the face in terms of color. There are no subsequent applications necessary. This is typical for many but not all stones.
The face of the slab was already treated with ager (Color enhancer) and then was most likely coated with a resin finish. This was done to bring out natural colors and make the stone vibrant. The edges have not been determined where they go yet nor cut, once that is done the freshly exposed edges need to be treated so that the edges match the face.
In light of the fact that you like the slabs face (that is why you selected it) your fabricator is doing the right thing by making the edge match the face.
Not all granits need this, it depends upon the color.
Think of it like wood stain.....If you cut a piece of wood trim that you already have in your kitchen, say your mocha glaze cabinet, the fresh cut would also need to be stained to match. You do not need to re-apply wood stain not do you need to reapply color enhancer.
The Reluctant Gourmet
Thanks Dan from http://www.stonemastersinc.net for another helpful answer.
Miguel
This sure is really helpful! Glad to have stumbled upon this post.
Thanks a lot. 🙂
Shaun
Wow, this is a very valuable and comprehensive article. This one's getting bookmarked!
Melissa
Very informative post. We are in the process of replacing our Formica countertops and have been looking at granite, quartzite and soapstone. This is out forever home and it is a busy kitchen so we want to make sure we pick the right stone. One that will give us the most benefits without the worry that we will have to replace it ten, 20 years from now. Can you recommend one over the other?
Glenn Brandon
I live in Birmingham, Alabama in the same house for a long time and the black granite was the only thing about the kitchen I do not like. So instead of replacing it I brightened up all of the white around it the walls the cabinets so contrast it looks brighter more crisp then I went over all the granite with the cleaner and I got some granite polish you can get it then has different colors I put it down there then a sealer it all looks great I'll send you a picture. This is a great site. I should be an advertisement for them.
Granite Slabs
Thank you for sharing blog related to Kitchen Granite Countertops as information is in very clear form and please keeps sharing with us.
Amy Winters
I'm glad you mentioned that investing in level 4 and up granite countertop is a good idea if you want the countertop for yourself and not for resale value. My husband and I want to have our kitchen remodeled, and we definitely plan on staying in the house for a while. I think we'll take your advice and invest in countertops that are level 4 and up.
China Countertop Manufacturer
Nice article such a great information about granite countertops thanks for sharing keep posting like this.
Artificial Stone
thanks for such informative post.
cnzhmachinery
I was seeking this specific information for a long time. Thanks and good luck.
miteshuk123
I don’t have any words to appreciate your post I am really impressed with a post you posted above regarding GRANITE KITCHEN COUNTERTOPS. Thanks for sharing in detail.
Charles Paul
This blog is well-presented with lots of information on the fabricator. Now, I know what to look for in a fabricator. This will help me in choosing the right kitchen countertops. Thank you for sharing this.
Universal Stone
You are right, anyone who will read the post, will have a better understanding of the choice of the best granite countertop. Damn informative post, keep sharing!
granitess
Its a nice website. Thanks for giving full information about the slabs.
marco maro
Woow, that’s amazing write-up. I really enjoyed this post…Thank you for the information.
Silestone
This is a brilliant post, thank you for sharing about granite countertops and high rise homes. We always tend to change something or the other in our house, thanks for this great advice.
Peter Adams
Coulon Stone delivers top-quality stone and granite, combining strength and beauty for all your construction and design needs.