Buying Jellied Fish Is No Good

Black Tip Shark That Looked Great But Tasted Lousy

The other day, I purchased what I thought were gorgeous-looking shark filets for grilling. They were on sale at an excellent price, which should have been my first clue that something may need to be corrected, but I have purchased a lot of fish on sale before with no problems.

Fishmongers have told me, and I trust, that supermarket chains sometimes buy too much of one item and then have to put it on sale to move it. Other times, they put an item on sale so they can advertise it in the paper to get people in the store or so they can make one of those annoying announcements over the speakers while you are in the store.

This is why finding a fish store or supermarket you like is as important as getting to know the person running each department. Build a relationship with your fishmonger or butcher; they will steer you in the right direction, ensuring you get quality products and the best sales. In this case, I didn't follow my own advice. I purchased the fish at a supermarket chain whose fish department doesn't usually "wow" me from a person behind the counter I did not know.

They told me the filets were black tip sharks, great for grilling, and tasted like swordfish selling at a significantly higher price. The filets looked great, and when I brought them home, they smelled fine.

Grilling and Tasting

I seasoned them with olive oil, salt & pepper and threw them on my gas grill, being careful not to overcook them. We like our fish medium, especially if serving it to the kids.

When I first cut into the fish for that first bite, I knew something wasn't right. The fish did not flake apart as I expected. The meat was very tough, tasted mealy, and was almost inedible. When I say inedible, I don't mean the fish was turned, but chewy—not what I expected.

I thought I hadn't cooked it right or was supposed to marinate it for a few hours, so I emailed my friend Chef Alan Bickel with my own Ask A Chef Question.

I wrote, "Chef, what did I do wrong?  Is it my cooking technique or the fish? And if it was the fish, what was wrong with it? It looked great at the market."

Here is what Chef Alan replied to me:

"I have experienced what I think you're referring to, although it has always been with swordfish in my case. It is almost a 'grainy' texture in the mouth, almost as if you were trying to chew finely ground-up sandpaper.

In addition, I find the surface of the steaks has almost a sandy feel and is not as firm as normal for a dense fish of that kind. As far as flavor profile goes, in a case like this, there's a very bland, depthless feel instead of a full characteristic flavor.

If this is something akin to what you're talking about, my research leads me to a term known as a 'jellied' condition in the meat.  The references have all been vague, so I'm not 100% certain of the name. Still, the apparent cause is a lack of protein in the fish, resulting from an inability to replace lost nutrients after spawning, especially in fish living in extremely cold water.

Again, I'm not entirely sure about the particular name of this condition or if it describes what we're talking about. Still, I will continue to look into this, perhaps throw the question around to a few Chefs in my circle, and I'll let you know if I come up with anything else.

My Research

Once I knew there was a condition called "jellied," I researched the Internet and learned more about what Chef Alan was talking about.

I found a site called Fisheries and Oceans Canada that talked about the Witch Flounder. They said, "A biological assessment of this stock in 1978 indicated the presence of very large old fish up to 26 years of age in the landings. Many of these old fish had to be discarded because of their "jellied" condition and generally poor quality. During spawning season, these fish do not feed much, if at all, and the energy required for survival has to be obtained from the fish's body, leaving behind a soft "jellied" flesh useless for marketing. This condition does not occur in the younger fish."

At the University of Miami Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science, I read a response to the question:

"Some time ago, I caught a broadbill swordfish off No Man's Land, Massachusetts. It appeared normal in every respect and weighed about 350 pounds. However, at the market, I was told that the fish was a "jellied" type. The meat presented a mealy, soft appearance. Could you tell me what is known about this disease or condition?"

Their response was:

"Jellied condition in fishes has several causes. A recent study of this condition in flounder was attributed to a lack of protein due to the failure of fish living in very cold water to recover body protein loss after spawning and absorbing water to replace it. In swordfish, tuna, and other large pelagic fishes, it seems to be caused by parasites."

Oh no, I hope my shark didn't have parasites and was just an old codger!

Large Old Fish

Mealy and soft texture in fish is often associated with larger, older fish. As fish age, their muscle structure weakens, producing a coarser, grainy, or mealy texture when cooked. This can occur because the collagen in the muscle fibers breaks down over time, and the fish's natural moisture and fat distribution changes. Older fish, particularly those that have grown large, can develop tougher, less desirable flesh than younger, more tender fish.

Larger, older fish also tend to accumulate more environmental toxins, which can further degrade their quality. In commercial fishing, these older fish are sometimes caught because of their size, but they may not consistently deliver the same flavor or texture that fresher, younger fish provide. While large, older fish can still be used in some recipes, such as for stocks or stews, they are less suitable for delicate preparations that rely on tender, flaky fish.

Knowing how to identify the age and condition of a fish before purchasing or preparing it helps avoid wasting mealy or poor-quality fish that should ideally be discarded.

So be careful when buying any seafood. I'll ask Chef Alan for a list of things to observe when buying fresh or thawed frozen fish at the market, but again, I highly recommend getting to know the person selling you your fish. It may save you some money and aggravation.

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