And Now, for the Stinky Cheese Lovers Among Us, Have I Got a Cheese For You!
This review comes with a warning: If you think that Gorgonzola smells bad or draw the cheese line firmly at cheddar, this post is not for you. If, however, you love stinky cheese, if Limburger is one of your favorite cheeses, and if the cheese gets better for you as it ages, you might want to get to know Red Hawk.
We have a new cheese purveyor at my farmers market in Ardmore, PA. Di Bruno Bros. took over my friend Cheeseman Jack's booth and 4 or 5 more. I miss Jack and his rough demeanor and incredible knowledge of cheese, but Di Bruno Bros. brought with them a much bigger repertoire of cured meats, exotic gourmet items, and many great cheeses.
I asked the stinky cheese man (just kidding) for a washed rind cheese with lots of aroma like Epoisse, and he came up with this Red Hawk, and boy, was he right.
Red Hawk cheese is made by the chefs-turned-cheesemakers of Cowgirl Creamery, Sue Conley and Peggy Smith. They first made it by mistake when they were making a batch of their popular Mt. Tam cheese. One of the chefs noticed that the rind wasn't developing correctly, so she tried washing it off. She then set it aside and forgot about it.
Quick Look at Red Hawk Cheese
Region: California Country: United States
Milk Type: Cow
Milk Treatment: Pasteurized
Rennet: Microbial
Rind: Washed
Shape: Small disc
Size(s): 4 inches diameter, 2 inches high
Weight: 12 oz
Now For Some Detail
And when she remembered it again a few weeks later, it had developed a distinctive reddish-orange rind. After they tasted it, they realized they were onto something and perfected the technique. It's a triple cream, washed rind cheese (as is Limberger if that gives you an idea of its pungency).
It is made with organic cow's milk, which I like, especially as a father, because it is pesticide-free. That is, if I could get my kids to eat it. They both are adventurous eaters but won't go near the stuff and leave the room if they smell it.
It reminds me of a comedy routine:
- "This cheese is so stinky..."
- "How stinky is it?"
- "It's so stinky that it makes Limburger smell like roses."
- "It's so stinky that I can still smell it on my hands hours after I've eaten it."
- "It's so stinky that the dog won't have anything to do with it."
I learned that I am a bad father when I store my beloved stinky cheeses in the refrigerator. One of my girls will open the fridge door to grab a snack, only to reel back in horror at the smell. Even double-wrapped in plastic wrap, I will admit that there is a lingering...earthy...aroma about the refrigerator!
And if I leave it out to let it come to room temperature so I can enjoy some? Forget it. The smell becomes more pronounced as the cheese tempers, and I am left alone in the house while the girls seek refuge outside.
Now, before I completely scare you away, hear me out. Red Hawk might not be for the faint of heart, but if you like "stinky" cheeses--and this might be the stinkiest cheese I've ever eaten--there are several reasons why you should try it.
Red Hawk won Best in Show at the American Cheese Society Annual Conference 2003. It also came in second Best in Show and won a Gold Ribbon at the conference in 2009.
All the milk to make the cheese comes from Straus Family Dairy in Marin County, California. How many single dairy-source cheeses do you know? Exactly. I like knowing where they get their organic milk and how the cows are treated. In this case, I think it is true: Happy cows come from California.
The cheese comes in 10 oz rounds: enough for you and nine of your closest friends to try it, but not so much that you can't figure out what to do with the leftovers.
Red Hawk is aged for four weeks before being wrapped up and sold, but the cheese will continue to age in your refrigerator, so if you have the inclination and your family will let you taste a bit every few days to see how the flavor, texture, and aroma change over time.
It pairs equally well with bold red wines, sweet dessert wines, and hearty stouts. Now, your beer-loving and wine-loving friends can come to enjoy the same cheese tasting!
As a triple-cream cheese, the cheesemaker adds extra cream to the milk in the mix. This adds to the butterfat, adding to the creamy, silky, smooth mouthfeel. This is a truly decadent cheese.
So, if you have stuck with me this far, let me tell you what to look for when you buy it, because I know you want to try it.
- Be sure to ask your cheese guy to give you a sample before buying. It will come straight out of the refrigerator, so remember that the aroma and the flavor will be muted.
- Smell it. It should be pungent and earthy, but if it smells like ammonia, that's a sure sign that it is over the hill.
- It is a bit pricey--mine was over $30/pound--so don't buy more than what you can eat in a couple of weeks
- My wife and I served it with some apple slices and French bread. This was a nice pairing because the tart apples seemed to mellow out the cheese a bit.
- Let it come to room temperature before eating so the flavor and aroma can bloom.
Do you like stinky cheeses?
What is your favorite?
Are your kids afraid of it like mine are?
Have you ever tasted Red Hawk?
I'd love to hear from you, so feel free to leave a comment.
rose
my kids used to make me go out to the garage to eat my Limburger and keep it in a coffee can in the fridge; I am so going to look for this new one - thanx for a great review...
Hi Rose, that's very funny. Let me know what you think of it. - RG
zgal
Loved your review! I had a round of the Mt. Tam and enjoyed it. Next I moved onto the Red Hawk and the smell put me off at first. Having put in $20 into the investment I stuck it out and gave it a chance. I must say, now I am a true fan!
Thanks zgal. I agree, the initial smell takes a little getting used to but what taste! - RG
jan
i am a cheesemonger and you have great taste! i would recommend winnemere made by jasper hill in upstate Vermont if you are looking to broaden your horizons. jasper hill has a large selection of "lost" farmhouse cheeses. there is a another cheese called hobson made by jasper hill that is outstanding! - similar to a st. nectaire
good luck
Thanks Jan, I'll look for them and give them a try. - RG
Jill
We had a potato gratin recently made with Cowgirl Red Hawk cheese. We can't find it for sale locally and would like to find a substitute. Any recommendations? The recipe is on their website and is wonderful!
HI Jill, Cowgirl Red Hawk cheese is a triple cream, washed rind cheese so you may consider substituting another stinky washed rind cheese like the ones I talk about on Stinky Cheese.
I checked out the recipe you mention and will have to give it a try. It looks great but I hope so because these cheeses are not inexpensive. Let me know what you decide on using and how it turns out. - RG
Jill
Yes, the cheese is expensive to cook with, but worth it in this dish. We had it at my daughter's house and she used half of her piece of Red Hawk and it fed six people easily. My local Whole Foods recommended Epoisses as a substitution and I used less cheese as well and it was a bit stronger taste, but still delicious. You have a great website!
Thanks Jill, much appreciated. Epoisses could just be my favorite stinky washed rind cheese ever. - RG
McKinney Mommas
Love both of the Cowboy Creamery cheeses I've tried. Red Hawk was my FIRST stinky cheese that actually turned me onto stinky cheeses! 🙂
Monica
I love Red Hawk. On a baguette alone, with apple, or with anything. I could eat it with nothing, it's so good. Best breakfast sandwich ever=baguette, red hawk, tomato slices, fried egg. Heavenly.
Lori Krauss
My guys are always wanting to stop at their shop in the Ferry Building in SF. I could spend hundreds of dollars on cheese and they would eat it in 1 day. But boy, is it delicious and they don't even mind the stink. They eat it with apples and grapes. A perfect lunch.
Lynn
Thank you for giving one of my favorite cheeses a well thought out review. My local gourmet shop was kind enough to order some for me. Kicked myself for not bringing some back from Cowgirl Creamery when I visited their shop last month.
Debra
I had this on Valentine's Day this past weekend. Loved it! I thought the creamy silky texture was great on a plain baguette. Still thinking about this cheese, I decided to research it. Yes indulgent for sure, but did not strike me as stinky as the reviews report.
Lo Dees
I love this cheese! I usually eat it with olive oil crackers. It makes for a great snack. Seems like stores around me have stopped carrying it, so I bought some online. It was delicious.
Dee Carroll
Wow, we picked up this cheese last weekend and it is honestly the most stinky cheese I have ever encountered. I let it sit out around a half hour - honestly because I was afraid of it. It is salty and funky and delicious. Husband couldn't stand it.
G. Stephen Jones
Glad you enjoyed it Dee. Your husband doesn't know what he is missing.
Joel Mielke
Very salty, but creamy and flavorful. Red Hawk is not nearly as smelly as Limburger (as I recall—haven't had Limburger in forty years), but it is as tasty.
Christina
Red Hawk has been one of my favorite cheeses for years. As a teenager, my dad and I would travel to the Creamery in Marin and watch the cheese making process. My fiance now won't go near the stuff because of the smell, but I cannot get enough of it! I always get the full serving cut in half before buying which makes for a perfect amount for me to work on for a couple weeks. I also agree that the cheese is best at room temperature! I'm eating it as I write this comment!
G. Stephen Jones
I'm with you Christina. One of my favorite cheeses. I would love to go to the Creamery one of these days.
Cindy
Cowgirl Red Hawk isn't available where I live on the Big Island, but I'm visiting friends on Kauai & discovered it at a great gourmet cheese shop. I asked for a 'stinky' cheese, & the salesman directed me to this one--I love it!!! Pricey, but I only splurge twice a year (Christmas & my birthday), so that wasn't an issue. I only wish I had a good, crusty sourdough baguette to go with it.
Karl soule
Thank you so much for this review! My local supermarket had some 10 oz portions of this on clearance at roughly 90% off. Being a fan of Brie, it was too good of an offer to pass up. The odor had me a little concerned when I opened the package, and this was the first time having a washed-rind cheese. The flavor was amazing! But this is certainly a stinky cheese. Reminded me of the saying I learned in Singapore about the fruit, durian: “Smells like hell, tastes like heaven!”